Stolen cheap race car building ideas

I have found ideas ion the web to make for cheap and to add some professionalism to your car build. Here are a few we have off the ChumpCar forum..

-RWD Driveshaft Shortening/Building – If you need to shorten a driveshaft or pair the front of one with the rear of another, this method works very well. You’ll need to cut the originals apart, and you’ll want the seam to be as close to either end as possible for balance reasons so keep that in mind when you prep them.Fit them together in the car, paying attention to be sure the yokes are aligned. Start by tack-welding and truing with a poor-man’s dial-indicator: a vise grip clamped to the car so it nearly touches the driveshaft. Keep turning the driveshaft and smacking the tacked weld joint until it turns true in reference to the Vise-grip, then finish the weld. Cheap, easy, and they actually come out balanced really well. Tools Needed: Saw of some sort, MIG Welder, Vise Grip (or some other method of indicating the trueness of the driveshaft)


-Body/Spoiler Bracing from Fuel Line – Fuel line with the ends flattened in a vise and drilled makes for very nice, lightweight body bracing. It’s zinc-plated so it won’t rust, and since it’s meant to be formed, it’s very easy to work with and straighten either when building, or after you get crunched. Buy a straight length of 5/16″ or 3/8″ Steel fuel line from your local parts shop, cut pieces to length, flatten both ends in a vise, then drill holes in both ends, you can radius the flattened ends with a grinder or sander to clean them up. Secure with 10-32 or 1/4-20 Screws and Nylock nuts. Quick, easy, light, strong, cheap, and professional looking. Tools Needed: Vise, Drill

For circle track racing it’s used to support skinned body panels, but in Chumpcar I’ve used them as spoiler braces in place of purpose-built adjustable ones that usually run $20+ each. Beyond that, you could use them as splitter supports, dash supports, etc.

This shows some purpose-built ones used on the inside of a late model nose:


– Get rid of washers under nuts that fall off.  Take a wizz wheel to the nuts face to add some grip to the nut/surface interface.