A few early announcements for 2015! First off we are building another car. A 1992 Toyota MR2-GR will join the #79 MR2 GTv6 in ChumpCar, WRL and AER racing events in 2015. The new car 179 will be powered by a 275hp Toyota 2GR-FE V6.
Zipline Welding Booms and McKibbin’s Irish Pub Montreal will continue their support of RSm cars in 2015. Lincoln Electric will again be our official supplier of welding equipment. MR2Guru.com will be the official RSm OE used and new parts supplier.
Porterfield.com is now the official brake supplier for the Raybestos race brake pads. New for 2015 we have inked a deal with AutoMeter to supply race winning gauges so my drivers can keep up to date on the condition of our V6 engines.
FrakensteinMotorWorks.com will be supplying the needed parts to complete the monster motor swap into the MR2 chassis. Moroso will again be supplying oil products from Accumulators to Aluminum Oil Pans.
Racing Strong will again be working along sideTruleo.com to develop new and exciting products for the Toyota Mr2 that are race proven. A new big brake system using Toyota / Lexus OE parts and custom Raybestos pads is just one of the new systems that will be available soon.
beyonddrivenauto.com is now the official RSm race and utility light supplier!
I know you just want to see the data! You will need to have a PDF reader installed to view these.
1991 Toyota MR2 N/A
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo
RSm’s 1991 Toyota MR2 GTv6 finished 3rd in the 2013 Optima Batteries ChumpCar World Series Eastern Division Championship at VIR.
Ice and freezing rain could not stop the power and reliability of the Camry V6 powered MR2 against some of the fastest machines in the ChumpCar series.
Gene Bird, Mike Helm and Bill Strong piloted the MR2 RSm’s best finish in 4 years of racing in the ChumpCar World Series.
2014 brings some big changes to RSm and endurance racing. 8 races planned with more possible.
I have grown tired of having to rev the snot out of my 200hp 2ZZ-GE powered 2001 MR2 Spyder. I want the grunt of the V6 in my lightweight sports car. So now the build begins…
- 2005 3MZ-FE, used, 103,000 miles. I’ll refresh the belts, tensioners, water pump and a few other bits.
- 2001 1MZ-FE 3 liter VVTi engine harness. This is plug and play on the later 3MZ using the 1MZ VVTi ECU. This allows the use of a non-electronic throttle control. The what? Old fashioned wired throttle.
- 2001 1MZ-FE knock sensors.
- 2001 Toyota Avalon ECU, Toyota part number: 89661-07311. I believe this may have had the immobilizer hooked up to it. Cost was $75 for him to zap the ECU back into virgin mode. So I will send it off to:
- Brooke Francisco at AD USA 650-351-8270
- M-f 9am-11pm
- Sat 12pm-8pm
- 1435 Huntington Ave. Ste C
- 1997 Toyota 1UZ-FE V8 70mm throttlebody. I’ll have a RSm 1UZ to 3MZ adapter to make this fit on the 3MZ plastic intake manifold.
- OBX 1MZ-FE stainless steel exhaust headers. These need to be modified to fit the V6 / manual transaxle configuration. They are designed for the Camry. But are easily adapter to work on the MR2. These are some nice flowing Chinese made headers, we also use them on the MK2 yellow endurance racing MR2.
- Stock modified 3SGTE steel flywheel. Street car, so standard street stuff will be used. Makes driving in traffic easier. Clutch is an ACT HD pressure plate and friction plate.
- Mishimoto MMRAD-SPY-00 Aluminum radiator. Crash damage protection. The only radiator that RSm uses.
- NoobieMR2 1MZ/3MZ E153 engine mount adapter set. http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=471912
- Moroso 1.5 Quart oil accumulator, for those days that we do track the car at VIR or Summit Point.
- K&N bigass air filter and BPi Flow Stack intake with Jet Performance Mass Air Flow Meter.
- Woodsport Performance 6-Speed gearbox with Quaife LSD.
- 1995 Toyota MR2 turbo axles and intermediate shaft modified using the RSm mount on the intermediate shaft. ST185 26-spline outer CVs.
- Walbro High Pressure 255LPH fuel pump, internal returnless FPR.
- South San Francisco, CA 94080
The chassis is already pretty sorted with Eibach Pro springs and Koni struts, RSm chassis reinforcements, and 245 40ZR17 and 215 40ZR17 tires with matching big wheels. Brakes are stock with Porterfield pads.
More to come as we start putting it all together. And when I am done, you will know how to build your own MR2 Spyder GTv6!
No need to cut battery box out. Keep battery right there. Move later if you want. we see no performance gains in real life. maybe on the internet, but not in real life.
use a 93+ 5sfe with the 93+ S54 5-speed that goes with the engine. Better setup than 90-92 5SFE. But if that is what you have then use it.
Use a Rav4 3sfe exhaust manifold. – lighter and actually more power and it last. cheap too.
hack together an air box or do what I did with a good K&N filter.
Speed-Source.net makes pre-made mounts that you weld in. I did not use the jig, I just placed the engine in where I wanted it. mounted the side mounts to the engine, then tacked them in place. Pulled engine and welded to frame. painted.
I used the Speed-Source front mount and welded up a rear mount using the speed source chassis side for the rear.
Get a Celica 3sgte alternator mount as this moves the alt to the exhaust side and up high. Unless you want to notch a hole in the rear trunk and frame to fit it down low. I just hacked a hole.
stock MR2 1990-1995 5SFE N/A axles fit the transaxle and the MK1 hubs.
Replace electrical speedo sender with mechanical off of earlier S54.
Stock 4age fuel pump works fine. You can upgrade if you want to either 5SFE replacement. I suggest people do that so they know they are getting a good pump.
send 5SFE injectors to WitchHunter.com for cleaning.
use stock 1990 to 1995 MK2 5sfe fuel lines. The connect up to the AW11 filter and tank return. Replace fuel filter. Charcoal canister from the AW11 works fine as well.
Wiring is really easy. Call David Hawkins to come out and do it for you. Kidding. Use the Paul Woods MK1.5 wiring diagram. 1/2 the wires in that are not used as the 5SFE is really a simple ECU.
have your radiator professionally cleaned. use a new stock MK2 5sfe MR2 engine side hoses. that is the fun part, just slice and dice to make it all fit.
I use a 90s Corolla over flow.
Use the MK2 coolant fill tube and cap.
change oil pump, water pump, cam belt, clutch before putting the engine back in.
Use the MK1.5 SpeedSource clutch hose.
that is it. should take 3 to 4 days to do the swap, maybe 5 or 6 if you have to borrow a socket set. seriously. If you can’t, then please go back to changing air filters on hondahs
I have found ideas ion the web to make for cheap and to add some professionalism to your car build. Here are a few we have off the ChumpCar forum..
-RWD Driveshaft Shortening/Building – If you need to shorten a driveshaft or pair the front of one with the rear of another, this method works very well. You’ll need to cut the originals apart, and you’ll want the seam to be as close to either end as possible for balance reasons so keep that in mind when you prep them.Fit them together in the car, paying attention to be sure the yokes are aligned. Start by tack-welding and truing with a poor-man’s dial-indicator: a vise grip clamped to the car so it nearly touches the driveshaft. Keep turning the driveshaft and smacking the tacked weld joint until it turns true in reference to the Vise-grip, then finish the weld. Cheap, easy, and they actually come out balanced really well. Tools Needed: Saw of some sort, MIG Welder, Vise Grip (or some other method of indicating the trueness of the driveshaft)
-Body/Spoiler Bracing from Fuel Line – Fuel line with the ends flattened in a vise and drilled makes for very nice, lightweight body bracing. It’s zinc-plated so it won’t rust, and since it’s meant to be formed, it’s very easy to work with and straighten either when building, or after you get crunched. Buy a straight length of 5/16″ or 3/8″ Steel fuel line from your local parts shop, cut pieces to length, flatten both ends in a vise, then drill holes in both ends, you can radius the flattened ends with a grinder or sander to clean them up. Secure with 10-32 or 1/4-20 Screws and Nylock nuts. Quick, easy, light, strong, cheap, and professional looking. Tools Needed: Vise, Drill
For circle track racing it’s used to support skinned body panels, but in Chumpcar I’ve used them as spoiler braces in place of purpose-built adjustable ones that usually run $20+ each. Beyond that, you could use them as splitter supports, dash supports, etc.
This shows some purpose-built ones used on the inside of a late model nose:
- Get rid of washers under nuts that fall off. Take a wizz wheel to the nuts face to add some grip to the nut/surface interface.